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Last month brought the opening of farmers’ markets and with it, more opportunities to buy local, seasonal and sustainably produced food. As food production is estimated to be responsible for 25% of the US ecological footprint and the average supermarket product is said to have traveled about 1,500 miles to reach our plates, as rates of obesity and overweight have been growing, and as consumers become more dependent on mass-produced and processed foods, proponents of eating locally argue eating food that is grown locally and sustainable is more responsible, more healthful, and ultimately more delicious. But is it affordable and accessible to most people?
Many have noted that the calls to eat locally come from a small and affluent group of consumers, chefs and activists who have both the time and resources to shop at farmers’ markets and cook healthy meals at home. Eating locally, they argue, is a luxury out of reach for Americans juggling work, family and increasing economic insecurity. A study by researchers at the University of California-Davis reported that U.S. shoppers who consistently choose healthy and sustainably produced foods spend nearly 20 percent more on groceries. Supporters of eating locally argue that it can be an affordable option and some have even considered the recent rise in food prices with optimism as local and organic foods might not be seen as expensive in comparison. They note that the foods produced by our industrial food systems have hidden costs to the environment, to our health and to laborers that are not reflected in their smaller price tags.
Is it more responsible to try to eat more local and sustainably produced foods and less of mass-produced, processed foods that travel thousands of miles to our markets? If so, is it within reach of moderate to low-income families and individuals? Eating locally may be right, but is it real?
